The plan for the day was to sail the relatively short distance from Port Tudy on the Ile de Groix to Port Haliguen on the Quiberon peninsular. The day started cold and wet with a passing front so we were fully togged up in wet weather gear, such a contrast to the sunshine of the previous 3 days. The wind, which started at Beaufort force 3 to 4, quickly rose to force 5 to 6 which, coupled with the Atlantic swell, made a rough ride through the Passage de Teignouse. This was another stretch of water surrounded by rocks which required careful navigation to avoid running aground. After 5 hours of rock and roll we rounded the tip of the peninsular into more sheltered waters and reached Port Haliguen, which we promptly nicknamed Port Hooligan as the French pronunciation was too difficult. The contrast between Port Tudy and Port Hooligan could not have been greater; Port Tudy was a picturesque former tuna fishing port on an island whereas Port Hooligan was a vast, soulless modern marina. After touching the keel on the mud trying to get to the fuelling pontoon, we moored up on the visitor’s pontoon which was around a half mile walk from the Harbour Master’s Office and the showers. However, we did find a small chandlery which had just received delivery of a batch of “Jolly Hookers” (see 3 Jul 15) so we bought one for Synergy. We spent a quiet evening on the boat as we were both tired out from the battering that we had received through the Teignouse Passage.
8 July 15
The day’s forecast predicted winds of up to force 7 and so it proved to be so we stayed put in Port Hooligan. Throughout the trip the marina internet connections had proved to be erratic and unreliable and it was no surprise that Port Hooligans web connection was just as bad as the rest so we went looking for a hotel or bar that had a good Wi-Fi signal. (Any excuse will do!) Having achieved that aim by walking round to the old fishing harbour and eating a crepe at a café we then thought that we ought to check out the Wi-Fi in the hotel across the road. Theirs’s was good as well! Back at the boat we got talking to a British couple whose Island Packet, “Virginia R” was moored across the pontoon from us. They invited us aboard for coffee and we spent a very enjoyable evening chin wagging on their boat. Bill and his wife Jacqueline had been sailing in Brittany for many years and were a mine of information about sailing in French waters. One particular piece of information warning us about French fishing boats fishing with nets strung between them proved to be useful just the following day. Jacqueline gave Jac a little tray from Brittany – such a lovely couple who we hope to meet up with again in our travels.